LEAVING HOME:
BRITISH MEDIEVAL PILGRIMAGE
Presented by
SARAH SINCLAIR
LADY OF MALLARD LODGE
Pilgrimage to holy shrines was one of the most important features of the Western Christian Church during the middle ages. Pilgrimage became a popular form of personal religious expression in the second millennium as commoners gained more freedom and disposable income.
There were three great Christian pilgrimages. Rome was perhaps the most popular, and a blizzard of relics, shrines and chapels awaited pilgrims, plus the possibility of having a blessing by the Pope for those with connections among the curia. The shrine of Saint James the Greater at Compostela in Spain drew tens of thousands on a three-month trek through France and across northern Spain. The greatest pilgrimage of all was to the Holy Land, and took over a year via dangerous routes by land or by sea.
While the spiritual benefits of these big pilgrimages were great, including remittance of future time in Purgatory through indulgences, there were many shorter pilgrimages that required far less time and effort. Every country in Europe had its shrines to local saints, or to more famous saints whose remains or possessions had been divided among various important churches to attract pilgrims. Relics with a proven track record of miracles were naturally the biggest draw. England, Wales and Scotland all had a generous selection of shrines to meet almost every pilgrim's devotional needs.
Reasons for a pilgrimage were as varied as the pilgrims themselves. Some believers went out of pure devotion to a favorite saint. Others went to give thanks for a special blessing they believed a saint had bestowed, or to ask for such a blessing, especially physical healing. The rigors of a journey were seen as penance for those who felt spiritually unworthy, but the Church or civil authorities might also impose severe pilgrimages for grievous sins or crimes. Although the Church tried to discourage pilgrimage for frivolous reasons, many like Chaucer's pilgrims took the road as sort of vacation.
A pilgrim-elect first had to convince his or her parish priest that the proposed pilgrimage truly was for spiritual reasons, and that the pilgrim was in good standing with the Church. Pilgrims were required to pay all their debts, provide for their families, and write a will. The priest would then write a letter to his bishop requesting approval, or send the pilgrim in person with such a recommendation. If everything was in order, the bishop would grant the pilgrim a "license", a letter authorizing travel for spiritual purposes for a set length of time, also allowing the pilgrim to lodge at religious houses along the way. Departure from the local parish would be a major affair, with confession, prayers, and blessings before the congregation.
(Left) Pilgrims from a period woodcut, circa 1490.
In early times, pilgrims would be dressed in a long simple gown of russet or gray color. Most would have wide-brimmed hat for sun and rain protection. A staff topped by a knob, a water bottle, and a scrip or satchel for the all-important license and a few travel oddments completed the ensemble. Women sometimes wore their day-to-day clothes. In later years the special pilgrim outfit gave way to daily clothes for the men as well. The staff, water bottle and scrip were usually retained. Of course, the pilgrim would also need some travel money, usually concealed within their clothing. Well-off people might travel by carriage, litter or on horseback, and changed from finer clothes to more modest garb at the site.
Pilgrims usually traveled from one priory, abbey or church to another, stopping to pray (and make offerings) at lesser shrines to various saints in churches along the way. Commoners would lodge in pilgrim hospices (also called hospitals) and would be given leftovers from the monks' meals. Well-off travelers would usually be housed overnight in guest rooms, and might dine with the prior or abbot. There were also pilgrim inns owned by the Church for those who could pay. A surviving example is the George and Pilgrim Inn outside the gate at Glastonbury Abbey.
Upon arrival at their final destination, pilgrims would process in groups to the major saint's shrine, where they might worship the relics. They then moved on to lesser shrines holding possessions of the saint (called "secondary relics"). Nearly all pilgrimage churches also had chapels to other saints (particularly to the Virgin Mary), and there would be opportunities to pray there as well. Naturally, offerings were expected at each stage. Church officials were always watching to prevent theft or other mischief. Important visitors might be allowed special access to relics not normally on show, sometimes actually being allowed to touch the blessed items.
Before the return journey, pilgrims would have an opportunity to purchase "pilgrim signs" or other souvenirs, much as we come back from vacation with coffee mugs or mouse ears today. These were often pewter badges showing the saint's martyrdom, their miracles, or some symbol associated with that holy person. These badges were available only at the shrine town or city, and were proof to friends and neighbors at home that the pilgrimage had been completed. Pilgrims might also buy "ampullae", small pewter bottles that could be filled with holy water or blessed oil. These were handy containers to bring blessings home to the sick.
By far the most important shrine in England was Canterbury Cathedral in Kent. One of the oldest Christian sites in the realm, and already owning such important relics as the bones of Saint Dunstan, Canterbury became the top English pilgrim destination after Archbishop Thomas Becket was murdered here in 1170. Within days, the faithful were arriving in large numbers and miracles were reported. At its peak, Becket's tomb drew around 100,000 visitors a year. In addition to the tomb, other Becket relics were sometimes displayed, including a reliquary containing the top of the saint's skull, sliced off during his martyrdom, the bloody sword, his gloves, and a handkerchief that Becket had used to wipe the holy sweat from his brow
shortly before his death.
(Right) A replica pilgrim sign showing Saint Thomas' head reliquary. Becket was represented by a huge variety of badges and ampullae. Some of the more graphic pieces depicted the saint's murder. (Photo by Lord Mungo Napier.)
Walsingham in Norfolk was a close second in popularity to Canterbury, and a lot less grim. In 1061 a rich and pious widow, Richeldis de Faverches, had a dream in which she was taken to Nazareth by the Virgin Mary and shown the house where Saint Mary had experienced the Annunciation. Richeldis was ordered by Saint Mary to build a replica of the house to help spread the faith. The Holy House became the centerpiece of a whole complex of shrines, chapels and healing wells dedicated to the Virgin.
The abbey church at Glastonbury was England's third most important pilgrimage destination. The abbey claimed to be the oldest Christian site in Britain. Supposedly Joseph of Arimathea and some of Jesus' followers landed there with the Holy Grail shortly after the crucifixion. Joseph stuck his staff in the ground which immediately rooted and grew into the famous Glastonbury thorn tree. In 1191 following instructions allegedly given in a dream to Abbot Henry de Sully, monks digging in the cemetery found the supposed remains of King Arthur and Queen Guenevere. With King Edward I's support, in 1278 these relics were installed in a marble tomb within the abbey church. This was pure tourism at its best, having nothing to do with Church doctrine, but it worked very well, and Glastonbury finally became a major pilgrimage site.
England was favored with many other lesser pilgrimage sites. Saint Edward the Confessor's tomb in Westminster Abbey was a popular destination. England's first Christian martyr, Saint Alban, had a major shrine at (unsurprisingly) St. Albans. The former Saxon princess Saint Werburga was honored at Chester. Saint Edmund, King of East Anglia, who was murdered by the Danes for refusing to renounce his faith, was worshipped at Bury St. Edmunds. Readers of Ellis Peters' Brother Cadfael novels will recall that Saint Winifred was translated to the Abbey Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul in Shrewsbury. This actually happened in 1138 (though not in the way depicted in the novel), and thanks to the real Prior Robert's rather flamboyant LIFE OF SAINT WINIFRED, the abbey church also became a pilgrimage destination. Later the Shrewbury monks went back for Saint Winifred's uncle, Saint Beuno, giving their church a "complete set", so to speak.
Wales also had many famous pilgrimage sites. Saint David, who evangelized Wales, was honored at St. David's Cathedral in Pembrokeshire. Visitors to his shrine frequently took a side trip to a nearby holy well dedicated to his mother, Saint Non, which was supposedly the place where she gave birth to the future saint. Another Welsh pilgrimage attraction was Saint Winifred's shrine and healing well in Holywell. This site drew many visitors, especially those seeking cures.
(Left) Saint Winifred's shrine at Holywell, Wales, is still an active pilgrim destination. The building at the center covers Her famous healing well, and is said to be the spot where Winifred was beheaded and then raised from the dead by her uncle Saint Beuno. A jewel-box chapel sits above the well. The statue in the foreground is of Saint Winifred herself. (Photo by Lord Mungo Napier.)
Scotland also had a number of important pilgrimage sites. Chief among them was the Cathedral at St. Andrews, which held several bones of Saint Andrew, Scotland's patron saint. Whithorn Priory in Galloway had the relics of the early evangelist Saint Ninian, and enjoyed royal patronage, especially from King James IV. Also popular was Glasgow's cathedral with the remains of the city's founder and first bishop, Saint Kentigern (aka Saint Mungo, and he's still there, though his shrine is long gone). Dumfermline Abbey housed the pious Scottish queen Saint Margaret's tomb, and was an important stop for pilgrims headed to St. Andrews.
Sadly, nearly all these British shrines, their relics, and most of the chapels, were swept away during the Protestant reformation. Pilgrimage became a prohibited activity. Even on the Continent, pilgrimage fell out of favor, and in its classic form all but disappearied in most countries.
Today British pilgrimage is enjoying a modest revival. Both Catholics and Anglicans again journey to Walsingham (usually by auto or bus) to visit the revived shrines and medieval ruins. Pilgrimage stopped only briefly at Holywell. Somehow Saint Winifred's shrine survived the reformation largely intact, and pilgrims still bathe in the icy waters from the well (towels and bathing suits not provided).
(Above) A model pilgrim license based on an original Text. The rough translation is: "To all those who shall examine these presents, know that we, Robert Blacader, by the grace of God, Archbishop of Glasgow, have conceded and given a license to Lady Sarah Sinclair to perform a pilgrimage and visit the threshold of the Apostle Andrew over a period of a year-and-a-half from the day of these presents. As witness, I myself, Robert Blackader, at Glasgow on the twelfth day of August in the year of our Lord 1495"
SOURCES FOR REPLICA PILGRIM SIGNS
Fettered Cock Pewters: http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com
Steve Millingham Pewter Replicas: http://www.pewterreplicas.com
Billy and Chrlie's Finest Quality Pewter Goods: http://www.billyandcharlie.com
Lionheart Replicas: http://www.lionheartreplicas.co.uk
Revival Clothing: https://revivalclothing.com/product-category/all-products/medieval-jewelry-and-accessories/
SOME WEB RESOURCES FOR PILGRIMAGE SITES
Camino Adventures: http://www.caminoadventures.com [Santiago de Campostela, Spain]
Walsingham Abbey: https://www.walsinghamvillage.org/about/walsingham-abbey-grounds-and-friary/ [Walshingham, England]
Glastonbury Abbey: http://www.glastonburyabbey.com [Glastonbury, England]
Canterbury Cathedral: https://www.canterbury-cathedral.org/heritage/ [Canterbury, England]
Saint Winefriede's Well: http://www.saintwinefrideswell.com [Holywell, Wales]
